Kritsa

Kritsa

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A walk through the village especially in the early morning is recommended for only then can you feel the pulse of this charming village. A goat tied in the street, splats of milk on the cobblestones, garlic clusters hanging from the eaves, fat, lazy cats - all set the tone for the drama which is about to begin.

Old men and women, like dramatic characters, begin appearing from the painted doorways, and start down toward the the town's center at the Platanos tree.

From every nook and cranny they come, the men in bloomered pants, woven vests, and white shirts with balloon sleeves and walking sticks and the women in black with scarves and ready smiles. As they pass their neighbors' houses, they nod to each other and exchange a greeting.

One of their number is chopping wood, two others are repairing the shutters on a small chapel using a stone for a hammer and everywhere is the sound of children playing and the smell of fresh bread baking. From behind closed, old iron doors,come the strains of Cretan music.

A glimpse through the houses of these narrow streets reveals a view that looks for all the world as though it's been painted with its olive and almond groves stretching down and away from the village. From this angle, the higher mountains appear majestic, even ominous,shrouded as they are in deep clouds. Overhead the sky is pure, Greek blue. Kritsa is a delightful mixture of sights, sounds, and smells.

The village's long history includes occupation, destruction, a revolution and nearly every villager has a story to tell if you have the time and the language skills to catch the accent. The visitor who happens on the village when a celebration is in progress will be charmed by the detailed devotion that their costumes and customs pay to their rich and colorful past. This is a village whose present is bound inextricably to its history and they are fiercely and justifiably proud of the role their little town played in the revolution against the Turks in the early 19th century. With its devotion to the traditions and the folklore of the island, Kritsa is truly a real Cretan village. You have only to look into the wrinkled yet handsome face of one of its men to understand the village's history, its present, and the link between the two.