|
HACIENDAS
All around Merida, the uniform low-lying jungle landscape is dotted here and there with tall red chimneys. These indicate the presence of old henequen plantations that preserve the remains of the industry and the lifestyle from a bygone era.
Henequen haciendas arose in the mid 19th century, thanks to a unique plant that is related to the agave cactus, the henequen or sisal plant. The extraordinary demand for these hard fibers on the international market, mainly from the North American rope industry, turned henequen into the hub of Yucatecan's economy from 1880 to 1920, transforming the landscape into acres and acres of "green gold." The use of henequen declined during World War II, when it was replaced by synthetic fibers.
Hacienda Uxmal
The fleshy leaves of this miraculous plant produce some tough fibers that were used to make various sizes of bags and ropes, from delicate cord for hanging hammocks to heavy twine for tying bales of wheat or hay, to strong cables as wide as a tree trunk to tie ships up to the world's docks. Today, these numerous plantations recall an age of opulence. Most still survive as small towns; others continue to process henequen on a small scale, while still others, majestically restored according to in-depth historical and architectural research, have been turned into deluxe hotels, tourist stops and museums.
Many old haciendas were originally cattle ranches or maize-producing plantations, which were then turned into henequen plantations. This resulted in a large variety of styles however in general, they all shared some common traits: longitudinal layout, few decorations, austerity, symmetrical doors and windows, and extraordinarily beautiful wrought iron work. Often, the gateways to these haciendas were adorned with picturesque Moorish-style arches. The thick, plaster-covered stone walls and steep roofs of imported European tiles protected residents from the intense heat, while the orientation of the house favoured the prevailing winds, for free circulation of air throughout.
All plantations had the same basic layout: around a central patio, the main house, chapel, company store, machine room, service buildings and jail were the economic and social center of a henequen plantation. The walled area also included the waterwheel, vegetable gardens, manoeuvring courts and fiber racks.
The haciendas were administered by overseers and had their own means of payment and economic control. The owner provided all necessary goods for his workers and established moral codes. Systematisation of henequen work led hacienda owners to build simply designed but durable, orderly towns for their workers. The hacienda owners themselves, however, most often lived in elegant mansions in Merida, and seasonally moved their family to their luxurious plantation homes.
The hard job of cutting the cactus leaves required many hands. Besides locals, plantation owners employed Chinese, Korean and Yaqui Indian workers. The trucks (small wagons) mounted on narrow Decauville train tracks transported the nearly eight-foot long leaves from the endless fields of henequen to the fiberstripping machine, and then carried the fibers to the drying racks. The long tracks also went to the main shipping towns and connected the haciendas to each other.
Several haciendas have preserved the essence of those glorious days when henequen was king. Recently remodeled, they are an alternative destination to visit, a major component of Yucatan's history. With elegant archways marking the entrance to these lovely plantations, wicker rocking chairs on their cool verandas, marble floors and sepia photographs, they are a romantic window to this page of Yucatan's history.
In an exuberant leafy setting where peacocks strut majestically, painting the vegetation with their delicate plumage, some of these haciendas have been turned into luxurious retreats where privacy reigns, and the perfect jumping off point to explore a region that is rich in natural and cultural wonders.
Search through the lists of Mexican Hotels presented by Dilos Holiday World to find the Hacienda of your choice. Let us reserve it for you at very competitive rates.
|
