Natural Geography |
Countryside and climate |
History |
Monuments |
Festivals
People and feasts |
Flora and fauna |
Trips through the province |
Excursions
Welcome to Rethymnon, the small Mediterranean town with its Renaissance architecture,
Venetian fortress, museums and beaches. We are sure that like thousands of others, you will
find so much to enchant you that you will return annually to Rethymnon.
As for the surrounding province, the difficulty is in deciding what to visit first.
The endless beaches, the monasteries and the churches, the ancient sites or the Venetian
and Turkish monuments? The area is rich in characteristic villages and areas of great natural
beauty, as well as caves and soaring mountains. Of course we cannot forget the local people,
famous for their hospitality, who will befriend you and may even share a glass of "raki" with
you.
If you arrive in this magical place with anxiety and stress the atmosphere and life is enough
to make you quickly forget your worries.
Welcome to Rethymnon. We are sure that you will come again!
NATURAL GEOGRAPHY
The province of Rethymnon is one of the four provinces of Crete. It stretches from the White
Mountains until Mount Psiloritis, bordered by the provinces of Hania and Iraklion. It covers an
area of 1.496 km2 and has a population of 81,157 inhabitants. The largest mountain ranges of the
White Mountains, Psiloritis and Kouloukounas and the secondary ones of Kedros,Asiderotas and
Vrisinas form a network of valleys, the main one of which is Milopotamos and the two valleys
of Amari.
The few flat areas are found near the north and south coasts, while the plateau of Nida
stretches over the mountainous mass of Psiloritis. The city of Rethymnon with its 23,126
inhabitants is the capital of the province. Smaller population centres are Anogia, Spili,
Perama and Episkopi. The villages of the province have a small and constantly dwindling number
of inhabitants, which average about 180 persons. The main transport routes in the province are
the new national highway which runs parallel with the north coast, the old national highway,
which is situated slightly south of the new road, and the Rethymnon - Spili - Agia Galini - Sfakia
road which runs north south.
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COUNTRYSIDE AND CLIMATE
Rethymnon is Crete's most mountainous province. Of its 1.496 km2, 507 are cultivated, 936 are pasture, 36 are covered by settlements and only 17 km2 are covered by Mediterranean oak, pine
and maple-tree forest.
The climate is mild Mediterranean and particularly dry and warm. There is sunshine 67% of the
year and temperatures range from 12 to 27°C. The prevailing winds are Northerly and north-westerly,
while occasional hot Southerly arrive from the African continent with great strength.
While the environmental condition of the countryside is relatively good, the centuries of
farming and grazing are beginning to take their toll.
The quality of sea water is still amongst
the best in Europe.
Many of the mountains have been stripped due to overgrazing and summer forest
fires.
Of the eight types of the land of the province (plains, semi-mountainous, sub-alpine,
coastal, wetlands and gorges) only in the last two has human presence not been strongly felt.
The two most interesting gorges for wildlife are those of Patsos and Prasses.
THE HISTORY OF RETHYMNON
According to archaeological discoveries, man first arrived in the area in the later Neolithic
years (3500-2800 BC). Until now, l3 instances of human presence in this period have been found, 5
of which are in caves. The most well-known is the Gerani cave which was periodically a fishermen's
settlement.
During the Minoan period (2800- 1100 BC) human activity spread throughout the whole province.
Settlements and large building complexes (Elenes, Monastiraki, Apodoulou) appeared which were later
flattened by earthquakes culminating in their final destruction in the earthquake of 1450 BC. This
destruction was taken advantage of by the Mykenes who invaded and settled in Crete.
During the Geometric Period (710-270 BC) there is evidence of civilisation in the area of
Eleftherna and its eastern areas including at least IS cities founded between 710 and 470 BC,
the majority of which are small towns. Of these, Axos enjoyed particular prosperity.
During the classical years (470-323 BC) Sivritos boomed as did Rithymna, the predecessor of
today's Rethymnon.
During the Hellenistic and Roman periods, Lappa appears as the most important city. The 5th,
6th and first half of the 7th centuries AD were peaceful under the jurisdiction of the Byzantine
Empire. Since the second half of the 7th century continuous Arab invasions disrupted Crete until
it was finally conquered in 827 or 828. The successive attempts of the Byzantine resulted in its
re conquest only one and a half century later (961 AD).
In 1204 Crete came under Venetian rule, a period of domination which lasted until 1669, the last
centuries of which are characterised as the "Kingdom of Crete" and left a legacy of many important
monuments on the island.
The Turkish occupation brought with it a dark period for Rethymnon. The economy became
agricultural, education ceased for a few centuries and oppression became unbearable. The Revolution
at Sfakia in 1770 prepared for the uprising of 1821, which in turn re—ignited in 1866. It was in
this revolution that the Arkadi Monastery near Rethymnon became world famous after the martyrdom
of its defenders.
Crete was eventually unified with the rest of Greece in 1913 and since then it has followed the
nation's history. In May 1941, Rethymnon was one of the German Parachutists' three fronts. The
memorable resistance of the local people led to the execution of hundreds of inhabitants and the
levelling of whole villages.
The development of tourism in the last 20 years has given employment opportunities to the
people of Rethymnon and has stemmed the emigration to urban centres which had devastated the
settlements of the province. At the same time, however, it has put a strain on natural resources
and the environment.
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THE MONUMENTS OF RETHYMNON
The Fortetza Fortress
Built after 1573 to protect the city's population. It comprises four bastions and three
entrances while to the north, its design is typical of the period with three look-out posts
(salients).
Ibrahim Han mosque
The most significant of the surviving buildings, built by the Venetians as a cathedral.
Venetian Harbour view
The Venetian harbour
From 1300, Rethymno's harbour was constantly being changed
and re-built to make it safer and hold more boats. Due to the prevailing currents along the coast,
this was never entirely successful. It retains its picturesque character even today.
The Loggia
The most characteristic Renaissance monument of Rethymnon and the most
important architectural reminder of the Venetian occupation.
The Rimondi Fountain
Rebuilt in 1626 on the foundation of the earlier one, the new
fountain is architecturally and sculptural ornate.
Saint Franciscus Church
The catholic monastery of the Franciscan order. It sports a
single sloped wooden roofed basilica with an impressively decorated entrance.
The Neratzies, the Kara Mousa, the Great Door, and
the Veli Pasa mosque.
The five surviving mosques are a reminder of the years of the
Turkish occupation. Of these, the first is the only one that can be visited, which is used today
as a music conservatory.
The Prefecture Building (Nomarchia)
Built after 1869 is a commemorative building
in neo-classic design.
The Old Town
Has been preserved in good condition with the public and private
monuments of the Venetian, Turkish and later periods.
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FLORA AND FAUNA
The climate and geography of Rethymnon, and Crete generally, allow the existence of a large
number of species, many of which are endemic to the island. As a result, the visitor may find
natural treasures that have existed on the island for centuries and were depicted in Minoan
frescoes such as the sea lily ( pancratium maritinum) along the coastal zone, sea turtles "caretta
caretta" which lay their eggs on the beaches and may even see the Eleanora's falcon "falcon
eleonore" which migrates from Africa in the summer months.
In the valleys, the visitor will come across, the makia bushes and laudanum (citrus incanus
creticus), the ebenus cretica and dozens of types of wild flowers. The quick-eyed visitor may
also spot hares, skunks, martens, hedgehogs and rats (apodemus sylvaticus creticus), bats and
many types of birds.
In the semi-mountainous areas, apart from bushes the visitor may distinguish cyclamen
(cyclamen cretium) and many birds of prey. In the mountains amongst other varieties are
the Cretan maple (acer sempervirens), the Cretan tulip (tulipa cretica), the yellow violet
(erysimum raulini) etc. This is also the most important habitat for birds of prey as well as
the Cretan wild goat and the thorn mouse (Amoco’s minus).
In the wetlands of Geropotamos and Preveli, the visitor will encounter interesting fauna and
flora, especially the latter, which includes the Cretan Palm tree (phoenix theophrastii).
Lastly, in the gorges, the visitor, if he is lucky, may come across the famous Cretan dittany
and other fragrant plants of Crete.
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FESTIVALS AND CELEBRATIONS IN RETHYMNON
The Renaissance Festival
This is the culmination of the city's cultural festivals. Having Successfully completed its
ninth year, the festival plays host during its three weeks to a variety of theatrical, musical
and cinematic events as well as dance and multi-media spectacles.
The Cretan wine festival
Already 35 years old, this celebration in the public park lasts three weeks in the heart of
summer and attracts thousands of visitors.
The Rethymnon Carnival
The local carnival, held at the start of Lent every year, has been revived in recent years and
it can be regarded as Crete's best carnival.
The feast of Klidonas
An historic celebration every June which maintains an interesting custom of burning
the flower wreaths which were made on first of May.
The fishermen's festival
Celebratory festival in the Venetian Harbour, with free fish and wine on offer
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THE PEOPLE AND THEIR FEASTS
The people of Rethymno countryside are direct, honourable and extremely hospitable.
In places where tourism has penetrated, traditional hospitality has been affected. The
Rethymnians like learning, are progressive and love their land. They fervently preserve
their music, their dialect and, although not as intensely, their customs.
Baptisms and weddings remain events of utmost importance and the Rethymnians'
demonstrativeness sometimes express itself in gunshots.
The shepherds celebrate their herd with the "koura", in other words the sheering
of their animals at the end of Spring which is accompanied by a lavish feast. The shepherds of
one particular village, Karoti, bring their sheep down for blessing in the church on the feast
of Saint George.
Fruit gathering from orchards and vineyards. A which heralds autumn, is followed
by an non official celebration next to the still, where the opportunity arises for a celebration
during the making of raki.
In addition, religious customs are alive and Christmas, Easter and the Assumption of
The Virgin ( 15th August) are considered to be the greatest of religious feasts. Other smaller
religious feasts, summer ones especially, give rise to local fairs. However, a few agricultural
products, like cherries, citrus fruits and sultanas, provide the basis for fairs in the villages
of Mt. Kedros, in Garazo and Perama.
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TRIPS THROUGH THE PROVINCE
Getting around the province in a car or on a motorbike is easy. The suggested routes take
in a lot of sights and can be easily modified, according to the visitors interests.
Rethymnon - Anogia
At 3 kms east of Rethymnon, the visitor can choose between the new or the old National Road,
the second is more tiring but more interesting.
Ten kilometres along the new National Road, detour and visit the Arsani monastery. At the
17 kilometre mark, stop for a swim at the beautiful and clean beach of Geropotamos.
Turning off at the 22nd kilometre visit Panormo, a picturesque coastal village.
There, turn to reach the Milopotamos district centre, Perama.
Following the old National Road after Rethymnon, cross the coastal area with hotels
and visit the Arsani monastery.
At the 24th kilometre reach Perama after crossing the villages of Viran Episkopi and Hani
Alexandrou. Following the same route after Perama, cross the villages of Aghios Sillas, Daphnedes
and Clourtzana, following the junction towards Garazo.
At the 44th kilometre reach the village of Axos where you can stop to visit the antiquities
of ancient Axos as well as the more recent church of Agia Irene. Eight kilometres further you
come to the small town of Anogia.
Rethymnon - Argiroupoli
Following the coastal section of the new National Road, you encounter the village of Gerani
after 7 kilometres and the settlement of Petres after 12 kilometres. After the river of the same
name, an endless sandy beach begins where you can enjoy a swim. At the junction towards the
village of Episkopi, turn left following the signs towards Argioupoli. If you wish to follow the
old National Road, you will encounter the traditional villages of Atsipopoulos and Prines.
Further along, pass through Gonia, Aghios Petros and Episkopi at the 31 St kilometre. Leaving
the old National Road and turning left, you will find a well-made road to the village of
Argiroupoli.
Rethymnon - Spili - Aghia Galini - Asomatos School - Rethymnon
Nine kilometres south of Rethymnon, you will arrive at the YMIII cemetery of Armeni and the
village of the same name 1,5 kms further along. The village of Mixorrouma is found at the 23rd
kilometre outside Rethymnon and Spili, the capital of the Aghios Vasilios district, 5 kms further
on. After Akoumia and Krya Vrissi, you will reach the tourist resort of Aghia Galini.
Returning, pass through the village Apodoulou where you can visit some of its antiquities at
Nithavris, Kouroutes, Fourfouras, Vizari and Afrates and stop for a rest at the waters of the
former monastery of Asomatos. Continuing, you will cross Apostolos Potamos and Prasses,
returning along the relatively tiring road to the beginnings in Rethymnon. The fatigue of the
return journey will be offset by the beauty and coolness of the two valleys of Amari, as well
as by the traditional character of its settlements.
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EXCURSIONS
MOUNTAINEERING EXCURSIONS
The province of Rethymnon is a paradise for hiking and climbing excursions, although
experience and suitable equipment are necessary.
- Roussospiti - Vrisinas: Duration, 4 hours.
- Arkadi - Thronos: Duration, 5 hours.
- Kouroutes - Psiloritis
Duration, 14 hours with a small stop 1,400 m up at the shelter provided by the
Mountaineering Club of Rethymnon.
- Ano Meros - Kerdos: Duration, 8 hours.
- Apladiana - Kouloukounas: Duration, 6 hours.
- Pan European track E4.
The possibility exists of crossing its two passes or choosing sections of its passes.
ORGANISED TOURS
Travel agencies and tour operators offer excursions to
Knossos,
Archaeological Museum of Iraklion, the
Lasithi Plateau, the
Samaria gorge, monasteries along the Hania cape,
Arkadi, Margarites,
Sfakia and
Santorini (by boat). Small boats make day cruises to
Panormo, Bali and Georgioupoli
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